Lisbon!

Greetings family and friends,

The magic of Portugal continued with a few nights in Lisbon.

First stop was in the Belem district to visit the Monastery of Jeronimos. The building of the church was partly funded with money from a 5% tax on spices from India. The two local guides I have heard are very proud of the explorers from Portugal. The church was built where a small chapel used to be. Sailors would pray there before going to sea. It was dark and kind of had a damp smell, but there was a nice altar, nice windows, etc. And of course, historic.

In that area, there was also some monuments like the Monument to Discoveries, which was built do mark the 500^th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. There’s a really cool marble map in the pavement that was a gift from South Africa. It marks the areas Portugal’s explorers reached during a time when many thought there was an end of the world. There was also the Belem Tower that was built between 1515 and 1520. It was the last things sailors saw when they left the harbor and the first thing they saw when they returned.

My guidebook had three recommended neighborhood walk strolls. I did some of the Baixa stroll, with Leslie, which goes through the downtown neighborhood. The walk started in the trade square and went down Rua Augusta to Rossio. Strolled down Avenida da Liberdade, which was originally limited to the aristocracy.

They also have a bridge that was built by the same architect that designed the Golden Gate Bridge. They are very similar looking. There is also a statue of Christ called Cristo Rei (Christ of Majesty). A cardinal was inspired to build it after visiting Rio de Janeiro.

Visited Sao Jorge Castle with Leslie, which is a castle used by Portuguese monarchs from 1147 to the 16^th century. We took one of the trolleys up there. There was a great view terrace with a great view of the city and a castle town where the elite/nobles lived to be close to the king, whether during Moorish times or Portuguese times.

So after the castle, the intent was to see the Alfama district by foot, which dates back to the sixth and eight centuries. The area survived the 1775 earthquake. But “what had happened was” the sky opened up with monsoon. So we ended up taking a took-took (which reminds me of an auto rickshaw). The driver was a woman named Maria, who is a student. What a kindred spirit. She is someone who would be my friend. Very positive and with a “yellow” personality like my friend Mary. So we saw the Graca and Alfama areas from the inside of a took-took. I would so love to walk around the Alfama and get lost in the backstreets. It’s the oldest neighborhood. Very narrow lanes that end and twists. Very good vibe. Maria took us to the highest point in Lisbon that had another good view of the castle and city.

So the final neighborhood I wanted to visit was the Bairro Alto neighborhood. We took the funicular up there. It was the neighborhood I saw the least of because it was dark and rainy, but the one I had the most fun in. We arrived for a Fado show but arrived early.

So before Fado, Leslie and I ended up in the Irish pub. Oh my! What fun. One of the bartenders was very cool. His name was Armando. I have a picture of him, Leslie, and me. He was comedy central, down to earth, and just cool. He said that the world comes to him because he meets people from all over the world. He is Portuguese, but his parents moved to South Africa, so he spent a lot of time there. Then his parents moved back. We very briefly met one of the dancers from the Fado show we were going to. We also met one of the guitar players, Miguel. So Leslie, Armando, Miguel, and I had some really great conversations about race and other things that people allow to separate us. Armando shared some of his experience in South Africa and the hierarchy even among races there. Then his experience about being raised in South Africa, then coming back to Portugal and the treatment he receives as a result by some of the locals. Both good people and people I would friend in real life. Armando was an extrovert, but Miguel was more introverted and reserved. We did learn that his brother is one of the top three Fado guitar players. His brother is currently in New York playing. He joked he was in the top 100 or so.

Then we went to listen to Fado, which is folk music. It was cool to see Miguel playing in the trio of musicians. Ballads about lost sailors, broken hearts, and bittersweet romance. Not that I have ever experienced any of that. LOL! But to quote George Constanza, “When they like me, I don’t like them. When I like them, they don’t like me.” The music is all about longing, which I totally get. And some music can really take you there.

I really enjoyed my three nights in Portugal and of course need to go back to see more!