Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Belfast II

Before I leap into Belfast, I wanted to talk about St. Andrews for a few.

I forgot to mention that St. Andrews is the patron saint of Scotland. At one point in time, it was the ecclesiastical capital of Scotland and people would take pilgrimages there. Andrew's knee, an arm, some fingers and some teeth were kept here. The white "X" in the Scotland flag is the diagonal cross on which Andrew was crucified. According to legend, St. Rule had a dream to bring the relics northward and the ship carrying them shipwrecked there.

With the reformation, the church was picked over. In England, churches were destroyed but in Scotland it happened gradually.

Today, I did a tour of the Antrim Coast, and I loved it! I would certainly visit there again. My favorite part was the Giant Causeway which is absolutely amazing. Also visited the Dunluce Castle. Apparently in 1639 dinner was interrupted by half the kitchen falling in the sea! This is after surviving sieges and attacks, go figure. Nature decided to take it out. We stopped by Olds Bushmills Distillery, but no tour. I don't like whiskey or beer so I'll pass. Also went to Carrick-a-Rede-Rope Bridge, which I thought about walking over but it was very steep and I don't like the feeling of falling over, plus I wore the wrong shoes. LOL.

Today, on the way back to the hostel, I came across the marching of some Unionist. They had the Sandy Row flag so they are from around here. Apparently a few days before I got here, some folks decided to display a "show of strength" by setting up their own checkpoint, and they were armed. I guess the police didn't interfere. Some folks say they should have but others say it would have just escalated into violence.

The guide from the tour told me that things were much improved these last ten to fifteen years. The fact that tourists are coming is a testimony to this. He said that 99.9% want peace but it's that 0.1% that are causing the problem. People refer to it as the "Troubled" time in the history.

It's sad here, and it has been a war zone, but even in the midst of chaos there is always hope and I think the good in people will overcome those who want to dwell in the status quo of division.

So tomorrow it's off to Dublin. I was going to take the train but part of the track collapsed last week so bus it is!

Monday, August 24, 2009

Belfast

I am currently in Belfast!

Yesterday, I decided to go to St. Andrews. I was torn, but I figured what the heck. I split a cab into town (the train goes to Leuchars) with a couple from Colorado. The first stop was West Sands Beach, which is where part of Chariots of Fire was filmed. Picture me running down the beach humming the theme music and you will get the idea. LOL

Even though I am not a big golf fan, I did check out the golf course. Apparently St. Andrews is a golf Mecca. I took pictures were Tiger and Jack play. Ha Ha.

I then went to St. Andrews Castle, or what is left of the castle anyway. I then visited the site of the ruins of St. Andrews Cathedral. I tell you what, it's an impressive site. I try to picture how the Cathedral would have looked if it had not been destroyed. It was raining hard and I was getting soaked, but I did see some of the school buildings.

Did I mention it rained EVERYDAY I was in Scotland. The day I leave, it's like blues sky. Go figure.

When I was at Stirling Castle these four young men who I think are from Spain asked me to take their picture. I mention them because they were on the same tour I took to the Highlands. And then, I saw them in St. Andrews. We were walking different directions on the opposite side of the street, but we saw each other laughed and waved. It was SO funny. Then I saw this family I was the Highlands tour with at the train station this morning. I sat behind them without realizing it until I heard the dad's voice. There is something comfortable and and familiar about them. I exchanged email with the daughter who is another 30 something. Basically it's a small world.

So after St. Andrews I went to Gladstone's Landing, which is a home that was a home to a merchant. It was a contrast to the Georgian House. I then ending my touring of Edinburgh the way I began, at the Royal Mile.

I was sad to say goodbye to Jill, the owner. Like Allison, she was very nice and good to me.

So this morning I caught two trains and a ferry to Belfast. When I was in the middle of the Irish Sea, I remembered my near-death Mexican Riviera Cruise and nearly had a flashback. Luckily Tropical Storm Evil, I mean Eva, is somewhere on the Pacific.

I checked in. I am actually staying at a hostel in Belfast.

Belfast. How do I describe Belfast? I am not sure what the word is but there is something __ (can't find the right word) about this place. It may have to do with the history. I would love to hear any impressions anyone else has had. I plan on going back to Edinburgh. As of now, I have not plans to visit Belfast again. Maybe it needs to go through a rebirth or something.

I toured the Catholic neighborhood of Falls Road and the Protestant neighborhood of Sandy Row. I'm not taking sides but the Catholic murals I saw were along the line of we shall overcome and this is why we need to be free. The Protestant murals were pretty violent and angry. The youth hostel happens to be right by Sandy Row.

I'll hold my judgment of the place until tomorrow but I don't get the feeling of home and comfort I had in Wales and Edinburgh. I suppose with all the history it is to be expected.

Tomorrow my plan is to tour the Antrim Coast and then do laundry. I head to Dublin on Wednesday where I will meet Candy and Pam.

This is a good place to slow down and actually relax and chill on my vacation.

Oh, I saw the City Hall building which is really nice.

I also met three very nice Irish men. One of who was quite drunk. Very friendly, but yeah drunk. I don't think it was quite seven when I met him.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Editing

P.S. I am not editing these as I go. I hope it's clear. I'll clean them up when I return. LOL

More on Scotland

There was so much more I wanted to write yesterday but was pressed for time. The blog serves as two purposes. One, it let's people know I am still alive! I think I may have mentioned that my boss asked me how would you'll know if something happened to me. I was like my bed and breakfast would miss me. If they didn't, Candy would certainly miss me in Dublin. And finally, if you don't hear from me on the blog start praying. When I won't blog everyday, I should certainly either be on Facebook, Hotmail, or the blog!

The second thing it does is give me the notes I need to do my photo albums. Two trips ago, I started creating photo albums of my trips. They include pictures, tickets, brochures, etc. that show where I went and what I saw. I figure they will be great for me to have when I am old and gray talking about the good old days!

One point I meant to mention about the castle in Wales is that I learned about the king's toilet. It's this seat with a hole that goes all the way down. Basically there were some toxic fumes in there. LOL. Well the clothing back in the day was animal skin and it attracted fleas and lice. So every night, the king's groom would take the king's outfit and hang it in his toilet. Being in that room would kill whatever was in the clothes and the groom would shake out the dead bugs and the king would put it on. I think we know that hygiene wasn't big back then. They thought showers were bad for you. Oh, how far we have come! Basically, all the romantic, clean cut images we have of the kings of old are false. They were dirty and smelly.

So the first night in Edinburgh, I went to St. Giles. It is described as the Westminster Abbey of Scotland. The inside is gorgeous. At one point in time, there were four churches functioning there, thus the many pulpits in the church. The reformer John Knox is buried outside the church, well under a parking lot. There is a statue of him in there as well. The church has 4 pillars that date back to 1120. I love seeing items with a lot of history and time because it makes me wonder about the people who have walked there before me.

As I mentioned, the Royal Mile is crazy with people and activities. It was fun to explore the first night.

I wanted to go to the National Museum of Scotland and the National Gallery of Scotland because I am beginning to appreciate art more. I like marble and oil on canvas. It wasn't until I went to Paris and Rome that I began to appreciate art. Before that, I would rather be outside exploring than exploring in a stuffy old museum. The Gallery has pieces by Raphael, Titian, Monet, and van Gogh (oh my!).

I wanted to go to the Georgian House because like I said earlier, I like to imagine how life was back in the day. In this case the late 1700s. I like the formality. That's why I love Jane Austen novels. It occurred to me that I have never thought about how the scullery maid lived. I don't know if I mentioned this yesterday but they were working like 100 plus hours a weeks. They didn't read or write and often their families gave them away because they couldn't afford them. Does anyone know of any books written from the maids point of view? So when it's fun to see Elizabeth, Jane, etc. go the ball what about poor Betsie?

My interest in the Edinburgh Castle was to see the Stone of Scone aka the Stone of Destiny. When Edward I conquered the Scots he took the Stone, on which Scottish kings had been crowned on for centuries (since the ninth century), and took it to London and placed it under the English coronation throne in Westminster Abbey. It was there from 1296 until 1996 when Elizabeth II gave it back. Of course the symbolism isn't lost on us on what Edward I was doing. He was a shrewd dude, but effective. Like I said in my Wales blog, he had this Manifest Destiny belief and he wanted to extend his empire by any means. The room were James VI (Scotland)/ I (England) was born is at Edinburgh Palace as well. The Scottish crown jewels I saw date back to 1540. They were last used for Charles II. The 1707 Act of Union created the UK and dissolved Scotland's parliament.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse has been around since the 14th century. Here is where the infamous incident occurred where Mary Queen of Scots husband Lord Darnley and his thugs murdered Mary's secretary who they believed was also her lover. As I stood in the rooms from her privy chamber they (Mary and her secretary) sat eating to the room they (her husband and his thugs) dragged him into and stabbed him to death, I could picture it all!

I mentioned I wasn't going to visit Stirling, but one of my buds at the Port or Portland convinced me to go by saying it was were the highlands met the lowlands so I was sold! Two important battles happened there. One was the Battle of Stirling Bridge. This was lead by William "Braveheart" Wallace. Technically, he ambushed the British soldiers. The soldiers were crossing the bridge two at a time. He allowed half to cross then he attacked. I think rules of engagement mandate they all cross but what do I know about war?

As background, a Scottish king died without an heir and the Scottish nobles were fighting among themselves to decide who would be king. Then enter Edward I who decided he would be king and placed a figure head over Scotland. Wallace fought for freedom. He was eventually captured and killed but he ended up becoming a martyr.

Enter the Battle of Bannockburn in which Robert the Bruce defeated Edward II's army. The site is very green. I heard that the grass around Stirling is green because of all the blood shed there. It was weird to walk on the site I knew a battle had taken place and people had died.

They say that he who holds Stirling holds Scotland which explains why people fought over it. It literally is the bridge between the low and highlands. Stirling was the capital of Scotland for many years.

The Stirling Palace was a gold color and you could see it from miles away. I saw the old Palace where Mary Queen of Scots played as a child (until she was around six and went to France to marry the Dauphin). They say that James IV had 300 kids only one of who was legitimate (Mary). They also said that all the Stuart kings were quite lusty and that one in eight Scots has royal blood in them thanks to the many illegitimate kids the kings had. JEEZ!

Today, I went on a tour of the highlands. It was so beautiful! I saw Loch Ness and was hoping to see the monster but Nessie wouldn't come out and play. Darn it, there goes the get rich scheme I had about selling the picture. It is very rugged up there and the landscape changes ever so quickly.

Tomorrow is my last full day in Scotland. I leave to go to Belfast Monday early morning.

I am torn between wanting to go to St. Andrews tomorrow and wanting to just chill out my last day here. I've been doing a lot of running around at every night I am reminded that I am in fact tired!

In closing today, I am touched by the Scottish pride. When they asked the pope to acknowledge them as a country during the days of Robert the Bruce they wrote this declaration of independence document (I forgot what it's actually called) where they said it's not for money or land it's for freedom. I'll have to post it because it moved me.

Okay. I need to head home for the night.

Friday, August 21, 2009

P.S.

I am a firm believer that travel grows people, and I think this trip is growing me. I'm a little more adventurous this go round. When I post the pictures, I hope that outside the standard shots of buildings and scenery you appreciate the artistic shots I am taking.

I am already mentally beginning to put together my next trip. Does anyone have anyplace they really enjoyed that I should consider. Does anyone want to join me on an adventure.

I met a woman from Maryland who also traveled alone. I asked her if customs asked her a million questions about traveling alone and she said yes and told me the questions, which were the same they asked me. What is up with the concern over single (women) travelers? If I had to wait for a travel partner, I would never go anywhere! LOL

Scotland Day Three

I was very sad to leave Wales, but so excited to start the next chapter. This vacation is rolling by too fast!

I took the train from Wales to Scotland. Once I hit Edinburgh, I was ready to roll. The guidebook had great directions on how to get to my B&B. BUT the stop is closed due to construction of their tram. Since I couldn't find an alternative bus stop, I took a taxi AKA plans B and C. LOL.

My first night was cool. I hit the Royal Mile. Due to the many film festivals, the city is packed. My host said the population doubles during the film festivals. The Royal Mile was packed and there were many acts doing routines. And people were everywhere. I went to St. Giles Church and I also ended up walking to the Palace and the Parliament building. I met a woman named Elaine and we hung out for a minute. I think she is lonely. Her husband left her for a friend and she remarked that her life as she knew it was taken from her. That hit me in a hard way. She also mentioned a couple she know who both ended up getting cancer. THEN they decided to see the world. She told me to do what I can now...not wait until something major happens. I'm getting quite a lot of sage advice.

Yesterday was a whirlwind. I went to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the National Museum, the Edinburgh Castle, the National Gallery and the Georgian House. I am tired writing all this. Why the rush you might ask? Today I went to Stirling to see the Castle there, the William Wallace Monument, and the Bannockburn Heritage Center. The Stirling side trip was not part of the original plan so I had to cram Edinburgh in. Tomorrow I go on a tour of the highlands. I plan on going to St. Andrews on Sunday. We will see. I have to remember I am on vacation and I need to get some rest.

I am finding the history of the Scots very interesting. I know more English history so I am getting a different view. I plan on studying Robert de (the) Bruce and Mary of Guise more when I return. You should know by now that I am a total Elizabeth I fan, but I am getting curious about Mary Queen of Scots which almost sounds sacrilege.

I have seen where she grew up, the room she had James VI of Scotland/ I of England, the place of her coronation so quite a lot.

I am also hearing grumblings of independence. The Scots are ready for independence from England. Interesting times.

I saw their crowns jewels which are older than England's because England's were destroyed by Cromwell. He was not able to get to the Scots though he tried.

I remember that I love marble and oil paintings, which is why I like the gallery better than the museum.

Oh, and in Stirling the City Sightseeing bus that was listed as a way to get to the three points of interest was ended at the beginning of the year. Again, on to plan b. I made it.

It's great to see so much, and I have a lot more to learn about the history of Scotland. My only regrets are not coming sooner and not having more time.

Oh if only time and money were not an issue!

XOXO

Monday, August 17, 2009

Wales

I arrived at Wales about five on Sunday. I was so tired from the journey, and I dozed off a few times on the train. I got my second wind when I arrived at my Bed and Breakfast. After settling in, I went on a small introductory walk that I found in my guidebook. I ended up eating along the harbor. There was a band playing covers by Pink Floyd and it was the last day of a river festival in Conwy.

I gratefully laid my head to bed around nine. Around two, I awoke and was up until six something before I drifted in and out until about 9:30 when I decided I had better get up and not waste my time in Conwy in bed!

The first order of business was to see the Conwy Castle. It was built during the reign of Edward I. He had many castles built simultaneously in Northern Wales. Basically Edward I had this manifest destiny like belief that he should own what was west of him. The Northern Wales folks were not too happy, but, with the help of Southern Wales (they were upset with the Northern folks whose borders kept inching there way South), Edward I defeated the Northern Wales. (At this point in times I don't think the places were called Wales (North or South). After the defeat, there was an uprising and Edward I came back to suppress it. This time he built the castles to show his strength and presence.

Conwy Castle was built as a military castle, and it was built to survive an attack, which none came. It has several murder halls, which are basically open spaces were archers can pick people off one-by-one. It's built so any army would have to enter one-by-one making the soldiers easy to pick off. There are also three double walls. If invaders made it past one murder hall there is a second. The steps leading up into the castle are narrow and clockwise. Again, intruders would have to come up one-by-one and there is advantage to being up top. Plus, the top has better light. The castle only had 30 soldiers.

I kind of chuckled when we got to the chapel. Edward I had his own special room to view mass from a room above. His queen, Eleanor, had a viewing space for her and her ladies. It was very interesting.

Oh, they kept their horses in the castle. That way if the town was attacked, they had the horses in the castle. Worse case scenario they could also use the horses for food.

Today, I went to Plas Mawr, which is a Tudor period home built during the reign of Elizabeth I. It's set up to show you how life was during the Elizabethan times. The family who owned the home was well to do. There was a great audio tour that explained how the house was run. It was cool.

I took the bus to Caernarfon to see the castle there. This castle was different from the Conwy Castle in that it was built to be a palace, military fortress, and government seat for Wales. I should mention that when Edward I was building his castles, he built them every 20 miles. This castle was left unfinished. It was the place that Prince Charles was invested as Prince of Wales in 1969.

In Caernarfon, I learned the reason there were no further revolts against Edward I after the initial revolt (which happened at Caernarfon) was because Edward I had all Wales leaders killed. He also created lords and barons and lowered taxes because he needed to turn his attention to Scotland. This Castle too had 30 soldiers.

In Caernarfon there is the Segontium Roman Fort which dates back to A.D. 77. It is the western most Roman fort. All that is left the foundation, but it was still cool to see. I wasn't sure what to expect, but I know if I hadn't gone, I would always wonder what I missed. There were 30 legions in the Roman Empire and three were in Britain.

I have been spending my nights on the harbor. There have been families both nights who come down and catch crabs. They put them back when they are done because the crabs are so small. They use bait and basically reel them in. Last night there was a family of four (a boy, a girl, and two twin younger girls). Now the middle child Alphia was having problems. I felt so bad for her because she was in tears because she couldn't catch anything. I figured her being the middle child was worst because the oldest was a boy and the youngest twins. I had to say a brief prayer for her. It was either providence or timing because she started catching crabs. She was so cute, and I thought that would so have been me, but once she caught on there was nothing stopping her and that is like me too. LOL

It is so peaceful here! The people are very nice. I feel loved as people have referred to me as luv and dear. It's more than I get at home. So, if you want to make me smile, call me luv or dear. I have spent a lot of time just walking around and enjoying the water and the green rolling hills.

I love the Bed and Breakfast I am staying at. The house is around 150 years old and the owners are very nice. With the original owner, the room I am staying in was the dining area. Our breakfast room was the sitting room and the room above me was the drawing room. I love picturing the house as it was used many years ago under much more formal times. Here is a link the rooms. I am in room 1.

http://www.bryn.org.uk/bed-breakfast.html

This is my last night in Wales. Next stop is Scotland!

I chatted with Alison the owner a few minutes ago. It was a great, inspiring conversation. Remember friends, life is for living, not existing. And, you don’t live to work, you work to live.